Expand your white horizon with Vermentino

This is our second article on expanding your white wine horizons just a little.

When we previously covered Viognier, we were starting with the lovers of rich, full-bodied Chardonnay.

Today we start with the biggest trend of the last half decade or so; Sauvignon Blanc. Almost every wine writer has put their flag in the ground where the next trend would lie. Not many have been right. To us, the breadth of new trends is the most exciting thing. Choose your wine based on the occasion, the food, the context.

Vermentino has been considered a candidate for the next big trend in white wine on more than one occasion. To date it hasn’t captured the minds of the mass market. Nor does it have to, it is worthy of your consideration whether it is trendy or not.

Vermentino is grown in, and well suited to Mediterranean climates such as many of our warmer areas (notably McLaren Vale).

The link back to Sauvignon Blanc starts with weight. Vermentino is typically light bodied and shows reasonably high, crisp acidity to keep it tasting fresh and lively. Where it differs from other contenders for Sauvignon Blanc alternatives such as Albarinho or Verdejo/Verdehlo is that it is much lower in pyrazines; the highly aromatic compounds that contribute the grassy, capsicum, herbaceous notes that can often put people off Sauvignon Blanc.

It is much more delicate in its flavour profile. This will appeal those who have found Pinot Grigio over the last few years. The minerality, occasional subtle almond notes and a little grip in the finish will be familiar. As too will the green apple for those who enjoy a lighter, crisp Chardonnay. The lime/citrus notes will ring a few bells as will the grapefruit (this is also derived from compounds found in Sauvignon Blanc known as thiols).

Finally, we turn to texture. In Southern France, particularly Provence, Vermentino is known as Rolle. It is here, along with some of the northern parts of Sardegna that the texture starts to broaden. The minerality, even the subtle salinity and crisp acid are still there. But on top of that comes a rounder, smoother texture, even a little buttery at times (the result of the same techniques that give Chardonnay its buttery feel. These styles tend to be a little more suited to food matching, particularly chicken tacos and richer fish dishes. The best cross over here is in fact Rose. The subtle silky, soft mouthfeel of many Roses you may have tried from Provence may well have been due to growers including a little Rolle/Vermentino for this exact purpose.

Parri Toscana Vermentino – $19
While Tuscan Vermentinos aren’t quite as distinctive as those from the islands of Sardegna and Corsica, they do exhibit the fantastic value that should put Vermentino on your summer drinking list. Plenty of citrus, apple paired to a dry savoury feel and an overall soft mouthfeel. It doesn’t try to be a complex wine, and that’s why you should love it. Simple, refreshing and delicious.

Iconic Domaine Tempier (more than once proclaimed the best rosé in the world) before establishing Gueissard in 2010. Still based in Bandol, they source fruit from across Provence for this wine. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault make up the blend. Light, dry and crisp with plenty of subtle red berry fruits, subtle salinity and a presence that set it apart in a recent line up of 10 different roses. It’s going to be hard to find a better value, classic example of Provence Rose than this.