Finding life’s vintage: A journey from finance to wine-making

When John White was diagnosed with cancer in 2020 at the age of 51, his wife asked him a simple question that proved to be life-changing: “What do you wish to do that you haven’t done yet?”

The answer? Make wine.

This led White and his family, only a short time later, to purchase Coatsworth Farm, a 32-hectare “fixer upper” in Portarlington with mature vines benefiting from the same rich volcanic soils and maritime influence that has helped to put winemaking across the Bellarine on the map.

 

 

The site is now home to Circulus Wine, a boutique, family-run vineyard focused on producing handpicked, small-batch and thoughtful wines known for their quality, complexity and unique character.

White, who launched into the study of wine straight after high school but ultimately pivoted to a career in the finance, now feels like he has come “full circle”.

He said the diagnosis forced him to stop and think about whether he was living the life he truly wanted to lead.

 

 

“My job took me away from family, it took me away quite often, and you just have these critical moments where you think, ‘What am I really passionate about?”

The shift has been so profound, this circular symbolism has been carried right across the business, informing its name, labelling and branding.

White says it reflects three important things: the farm’s location, which is framed on all sides by water, the business’s circular economy approach to viticulture and his own journey of discovery that has allowed him to circle back to his first love.

 

 

The regeneration of the Portarlington farm remains an ongoing process, as White works towards shifting the production of his wine, which currently takes place at Provenance Wines in Fyansford, onsite, along with the construction of a winery and cellar door.

Aiming to have a low impact and give back to the land, White follows the principles of regenerative agriculture, prioritising natural inputs like compost while reducing the use of chemicals, and between seasons, sheep are moved into the vineyard to make use of the natural fertiliser they produce.

“We’re just custodians of the land. We’re here for a short while, while this is going to be here forever,” he said.

“Terrible sins have been enacted on land over the last 150 years or so.

 

 

“We’re creating health soil and maintaining it. Ultimately, we’re soil farmers…you can’t do [this] without a good foundation.

“Sometimes you have to use synthetic fungicides – I call it breaking an egg to make an omelette – but where you don’t need to, don’t do it.”

White has also opted to skirt the traditional manicured look of wineries that double as wedding venues, instead allowing natural grasses to grow along with the vines, reducing pressure on the farm’s irrigation and promoting moisture-rich soil.

“It has a positive economic impact as well, because we’ve probably reduced our cost of inputs into managing the vineyards through the growing season by about 20 per cent over the last three to four years,” he said.

His winemaking philosophy is also one of precision and restraint, with intervention only taking place when necessary.

 

 

It’s an approach he believes has had a favourable influence on taste of the wine he produces, imbuing each drop with earthy and savoury elements.

“I think that produces a much more natural grape, which you don’t have to add [inputs like] acid or potassium or sulphur to. There’s things you do to tweak, but the less we do of that, the better.”

The outcome is a premium range of light, low alcohol, “old world”-inspired wines, with only the cool-climate Syrah sitting above 13 per cent.

“I’m making wine that I actually would like to drink myself,” White said.

“I’m not trying to make big, bold wines. I’m trying to make elegant, perfumed wines that are reflective of the conditions of the season, of the year and also the location as well.”

 

 

But don’t ask him to pick his favourite – it would be “like choosing your favourite child”, he said. Each wine is “different for different occasions”.

“The Syrah, I think, is a bit shy. It takes a while to open up, but it’s a beautiful wine to have with rich meats,” White said.

“The Cabernet Franc is really good with terrines… Pinot, that’s a winner, hands down, for most times; I’m really proud of that. And the Chardonnay is more citrus driven with a bit of stone fruit and with a bitter oak treatment in there as well.”

With major surgery behind him and a clean bill of health, everything lies ahead for Circulus Wine as White looks towards bottling his next vintage, build the complexity of his wines and continue to “push the envelope”.

For more information on Circulus Wine, head to circuluswine.com.au