Grapevine: Flying under the radar

For a region with such a high density of great quality producers, Beechworth still seems to fly under the radar for many wine drinkers.

There is some similarity here with our local region – dominated by small, often family run, quality-focused producers many of which could be considered among the best in the country, yet the region itself doesn’t quite get mentioned often enough amongst the best in the country.

Beechworth is somewhat isolated up in the north of Victoria, with only 30 or so producers who all produce wines at a relatively “premium” price-point. Most of them farm and produce solely from their own vineyards which are rarely large, thus with demand continuing to slowly grow amongst those who know the region prices have nowhere to go but up.

You may have heard of Giaconda, Sorrenberg, Fighting Gully Road or Castagna but producers like A Rodda, Traviarti or Domenica may not have hit your radar yet, despite being well worth the effort to track them down. They all produce exemplary examples of the regions staples – Chardonnay with power and richness balanced by minerally acidity and struck match funk. Shiraz that has a great affinity with granitic soils that are found throughout the region – brambly, earthy with seductive texture and savoury, mineral notes. While recent plantings of other varieties such as Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo are quickly becoming national benchmarks.

Most of the new or “under the radar” producers have stellar pedigree in their background, Domenica just one of them worth noting here. Winemaker Peter Graham worked at Giaconda for 13 years developing a great understanding for the region and style of wines that suited the area. The cross-over of varieties produced is quite similar – Chardonnay, Shiraz, Nebbiolo, Roussanne and Marsanne all feature and are well suited to the region.

Over the course of his time at Giaconda he was also involved in the joint venture between Giaconda and famed French producer Michel Chapoutier, The Giaconda-Chapoutier joint venture was known as Ergo Sum and you may well have had the wines over the past decade or so, but in 2012 Peter Graham bought out the shares of Giaconda and Chapoutier in the venture and has since been producing wines from the vineyard on his own, under the Domenica label which means since the vineyards establishment he has been involved in producing wines every vintage.

Domenica Chardonnay 2017 – $49
It’s a wine that will undoubtedly reward cellaring, it opens with struck match, ripe lemon, lime, and subtle stone fruits. The concentration of fruit and flavour is excellent, albeit restrained on first opening. With time in the glass it fleshes out wonderfully, with flavour building across the palate – toast, cream and butter develop towards the back of the palate and carries on through the finish with great persistence.