GSM – A CLASSIC BLEND

We have written on a number of occasions about wine blends and the virtues of combining different grape varieties in a single wine to produce a more complete, distinctive drink.

In this article we will focus on what is now a classic Australian red blend, GSM.

We must admit to being a little bemused by the lack of demand for GSM wines on the Surf Coast, despite them selling well in other markets. We believe they represent some of the best value wines going around and are a “go to” no brainer, especially with food.

It’s simple really, Grenach, Shiraz, Mouvèdre, blended together in complimentary percentages. Or is it Garnacha, Syrah, Mataro? Or maybe SGM, Shiraz, Grenache, Mouvédre?

These varieties have various names, depending on the country of origin, and the percentages used in the blend differs (The first named grape should be the dominant grape, volume-wise, in the blend); could this be part of the problem? Perhaps confusion in the buying public may lead to safe decision making, “I’ll go with the Shiraz, I know what I am getting”.

This would be a shame, as we think once tried most people with return for more.

So why such a blend? The wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the Rhone Valley have long been admired in Australia and the three varieties feature prominently there. They also adapted well to our conditions, Grenache in particular liking warmer wine grape-growing areas.

The percentages in the blend depend on climate, soil, ripeness of the crop and the preferences of the winemaker. Grenache is generally the lightest in character of the three grapes, producing a pale juice with berry characters and a bit of spice. It contributes alcohol and fruitiness without strong tannins. Shiraz contributes full-bodied flavours of black fruits and pepper. It adds colour, backbone and tannins and balance. Mourvèdre contributes elegance, structure and acidity, producing flavours of plum, game and (perhaps) a hint of tobacco.

Roll them together and you have a very mouth-filling, satisfying drink without the aggressiveness of some straight varietals.

Another issue people may have is that, like straight Grenache varietals, the blend can be of various weights.

Some are quite light, well-suited to drinking in warmer climates, but most are fuller-bodied. If you are unsure a wine is to your preference in this spectrum, please ask. One thing you can be confident with, however, is the house style of the various makers; they aim for consistency vintage-to-vintage, adjusting the percentages in the blend to the growing conditions of a particular year.

Tellurian GSM (Heathcote, Victoria) – $29

Tellurian are a fantastic small grower based in Heathcote with some cooler sites which helps them to avoid the overripe characters sometimes found in the regions wines. This blend is Grenache dominant as is common in the Rhone Valley. Ripe strawberries, plums and subtle peppery spice jump out on the nose. The palate is full-bodied but doesn’t feel heavy, it feels soft and supple with the Shiraz providing some intensity through the mid palate while the Mourvedre brings some firmness through the finish, adding subtle meat and leathery notes.