The classic blend: Australian winemakers doing well with GSMs

We wrote a short while ago on Australia’s take on Rhone blends, GSM. At the risk of “flogging the horse” with this article we are revisiting the style with a focus on the Barossa Valley.

To restate; we believe these Grenache/ Shiraz/Mourvedre blends represent some of the best value wines going around and are a “go to” no brainer, especially with food.

Inferior GSM blends are usually the result of blending off excess wine, an afterthought.

There are in Australia, however, a dedicated bunch of winemakers who love the style and are pursuing excellence with it. The qualities of the individual varieties blend well to harmonise the wine, give it balance, length and finish.

Judicious use of oak in most helps complete the recipe. While generally medium-bodied, they can be quite lush.

GSMs are made in most Australian wine regions, but the wines of McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley in South Australia dominate. The fact that these regions are Mediterranean in climate (hotter, drier) is the primary reason for this; the middle sea region is the home of these varieties. There is another reason, however. The main use for Grenache in Australia was in fortified wines, “ports”.

With the collapse of the fortified market a lot of Grenache was grubbed out or grafted to other varieties. We are lucky that people of vision in these two regions kept significant acreages of grenache, against the trend.

Now the trend has well and truly turned in favour of Grenache and Grenache blend table wines: Last season Grenache was the highest price wine grape (by average) in Australia.

As in most red wines, GSMs from the Barossa tend to be a bit riper and lusher than those of the McLaren Vale. This is mainly to do with soil, climate and elevation. McLaren Vale wines from the sandier soils of Blewitt Springs also tend to be a bit finer, more delicate.

Two Barossa versions at different price points worthy of consideration are:

St Johns Road Motley Bunch GMS 2016 (Barossa Valley, SA) – $19

This winery’s Eden Valley Riesling has long been a favourite of ours and our customers. We tried this wine for the first time this year and were immediately hooked; another example of good wine at a good price. Great value for money, bright fruit flavours, a touch of oak and a little bottle age result in a hardto- resist Friday-night pizza wine!

Sons of Eden Kennedy GSM 2017 (Barossa, SA) – $29

A great return to form after a somewhat disappointing previous vintage. Deep crimson in colour this wine features flavours of ripe cherry and blackcurrants with some spice aromas. The palate is an intriguing blend of red-fruit flavours and savoury undertones supported by a rounded and fleshy mid palate. Lush, long and an obvious step up in quality. Drinks well now, but will reward medium-term cellaring.