Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world, and yet its popularity is waning as other varieties are continuing to generate more interest.<\/p>\n
Coonawarra Cabernet has suffered as much as anywhere, often requiring a long time to knit together and become
\nharmonious as the tannins in Coonawarra Cabernet can be particularly aggressive, if not tamed. Pair that with somewhat of
\na lost identity as many producers chased the big, bold styles of the 90\u2019s showing high alcohol, lavished with too much (new) oak and often also appearing too astringent and even bitter through excessive extraction. After a bit of a lost decade or so, we are starting to see some excellent examples produced, both young and with a little bit of bottle age.<\/p>\n
This is after all one of the great regions in the world to grow Cabernet; the maritime influence helps to moderate temperatures, the famous Terra Rossa soil is free-draining and allows moderate, but not extreme stress. A few examples worth exploring:<\/p>\n
Hesketh Coonawarra Cabernet\u00a0<\/strong>Sauvignon 2016 $19.99<\/strong> Ladbroke Grove Cabernet Sauvignon\u00a0<\/strong>2012 $25<\/strong>
\nWhile this is a relatively young example, it has been made with a clear intention of early drinking. Winemaker Phil Lehmann (son of winemaking legend Peter Lehmann) has managed to tame Cabernet\u2019s imposing tannins, highlighting the blackcurrant and blackberry fruits typical of the variety. The fruit feels rich and plush with a hint of mint and savoury character to give it a touch of complexity. Tannins are firm, yet fine, just bringing some structure and shape to the wine.<\/p>\n
\nIt takes some courage and financial skill to be able to hold back several vintages of wine before release, but that is often what Cabernet needs and Ladbroke are certainly aware of that, releasing many wines with five-10 years of bottle age. This
\nwine certainly needed the time in bottle to settle down as the extended maceration and nearly two years in oak would likely have seen an imposing wine in its youth. It\u2019s in a great spot now though, the fruit and oak flavours have integrated nicely,
\nbalancing some primary flavours of blackcurrant, mulberry and mint with the oak characters of cedar and cigar box. The texture is becoming softer and velvety as the tannins continue to resolve.<\/p>\n