Steven Paul on the strength and future of Geelong wine

FROM hotel cellars to the helm of Oakdene Wines, Steven Paul reflects on two decades of shaping and supporting the Geelong wine scene.

Steven Paul has spent more than two decades championing the Geelong wine region. As general manager and director at Oakdene Wines, past Chair of Wine Geelong, and a respected national wine judge, his commitment to the local industry runs deep.

“I moved here thinking I’d stay a year,” he laughs. “That was over 20 years ago. It’s been the best move of my life.”

He arrived in Geelong after more than a decade working in Melbourne’s five-star hotel scene, developing wine lists before sommeliers became commonplace. It was through those early years that wine went from job to passion.

“You fall in love with the stuff,” he says. “The variety, the sense of place, the people. I just wanted to keep learning more.”

 

Now at the helm of Oakdene’s operations, Steven’s role stretches from production to staffing to planning each vintage’s wine program. He also plays a crucial part in Wine Geelong and Wine Australia’s future leaders program, balancing business with big-picture thinking.

That bigger picture is most vivid at the Geelong Wine Show, where Steven has long been a central figure. The 26th edition took place this year, drawing around 200 entries, all from the Geelong GI (Geographical Indication).

“It’s 100 per cent Geelong. That’s rare in wine shows,” he explains. “It gives us a chance to benchmark ourselves, celebrate the wins and, maybe most importantly, improve the breed.”

The judging process, he says, is serious business. Up to 90 wines are tasted per day, entirely blind, scored out of 100, and narrowed down through a meticulous callback system.

“It’s not just drinking wine,” he says with a grin. “It’s intense. By the time you’re judging young Cabernet at 4pm, palate fatigue is real.”

Still, the show isn’t all analysis and scoring. Steven lights up when he talks about the camaraderie it builds.

“It’s a rare moment where the whole region comes together. Exhibitor tastings, awards night — we don’t do that enough.”

 

That sense of place is something Geelong has in spades. With over 55 wineries spread across unofficial subregions — the Bellerine Peninsula, the Surf Coast, and the Moorabool Valley — Steven believes local support is the region’s secret strength.

“Our wines are largely consumed locally,” he says. “Unlike other regions that have to sell into Melbourne, we have a city at our centre that genuinely backs us.”

And consumers aren’t just buying. They’re staying. Cellar door tourism has exploded in the last decade. When Steven first arrived, there were only three cellar doors open on the Bellarine. Now, there are more than a dozen, with restaurants, accommodation, and new experiences all adding to the appeal.

“People come with itineraries now. They’re staying a couple of nights, doing five or six visits, and tasting across the region,” he says. “It’s a game-changer.”

That trend prompted Oakdene to recently open a second cellar door, Quiddity Place, in Mannerim, complete with a new restaurant, The Hidden Frog.

As for the wines, Steven is quick to spotlight Geelong’s strengths: Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

“Our Shiraz is genuinely world-class,” he says. “Cool-climate, peppery, with a maritime edge. It stands up against the best.”

He also sees opportunity in alternative varieties. Whites like Albarino and Fiano are gaining traction, offering fresh options for adventurous drinkers.

But for all the promise, he’s clear-eyed about the challenges.

“Wine faces generational change. Younger people aren’t taking it up like we did. There’s more competition, and there’s too much wine in the system right now.”

Still, his optimism doesn’t waver.

“The pendulum always swings. People are drinking less, but drinking better. And when they do, I want them to be drinking Geelong.”

Oakdene’s original vineyard is located at 255 Grubb Road, Wallington. The cellar door is open seven days, with additional tastings now offered at Quiddity Place, open Wednesday to Sunday.

Listen to more of my conversation with Steven Paul on The Local Palate podcast, available on all major platforms.