The other Pinot

Pinot Gris and Grigio (the same grape) have arguably been the biggest beneficiaries of the decline of Sauvignon Blanc’s popularity over the past decade or so.

Those looking for a light, crisp, minerally white gravitate towards Pinot Grigio, while those in search of rich, ripe flavours and spice eventually find Pinot Gris.

Neither has really taken over the landscape like Sauvignon Blanc did, or Chardonnay before it, which suggests there may be a gap that needs filling. Enter Pinot Blanc.

Pinot is a fickle grape variety, not only to grow and produce in its noblest form (Noir) but, but also genetically.

Its instability means that it can mutate quite easily and cause some surprise when picking Pinot Noir, where you may find some white grapes in front of you when you were expecting to see red.

Where Pinot Noir is found, Pinot Blanc therefore will be found, in Burgundy it is mainly used in the Sparkling Cremant wines that offer excellent value as an alternative to Champagne.

In Champagne, where Pinot Noir is one of the principal varieties, Pinot Blanc pops up again and is one of seven varieties permitted for use in the wines.

As we move west, Alsace is where we see more wines labelled as Pinot Blanc even if most of them will have a splash of something else to add aromatics, complexity or another layer of texture.

The reason you will not often see Pinot Blanc on its own or blended with other varieties is that it is quite neutral in terms of flavour and aroma. This is where it is likened to Chardonnay, which also relies a lot on winemaking techniques to define the wine. If you have found one or two Pinot Grigios to your taste, but not all, then Pinot Blanc might be your thing.

It is light and crisp with similar fruits of apple and maybe stone fruit, but it has edges that are rounded off just enough so that the acidity often isn’t quite as “sharp” as Pinot Grigio.

At the other end of the spectrum, if you have enjoyed the odd Pinot Gris then you may find the slightly honeyed notes appealing without seeing too much of the ripe pear or floral/ spice that often jumps out of a classic Pinot Gris.

Pinot Blanc may not have a strong definition of its own, but that may be its strength; it is malleable and a little “middle of the road”, but when its humble nature is recognised and made well, it offers excellent value drinking.

Hoddles Creek Pinot Blanc 2017 – $23
2017 offered a long, cool growing season for much of Victoria which brought about great freshness in many whites. This wine certainly highlights that as the crisp citrus and apple notes dominate the wine. It is filled out with some time on lees that lend a gentle, faint creamy texture to the wine bringing balance to the crisp structure. It isn’t a wine to think about too much, the drinkability is the thing to focus on.