Cut through the blurry edge

Here we are in autumn – and yet we have still been swanning around in the heat!
Autumn is harvest time with festivals and new produce appearing on the shelves at the markets – such as apples and fennel!
I know the edges of the seasons have become blurred – all merging and being extended because I can recall the time when we anticipated the first new spring asparagus, and hot cross buns and chocolate eggs were only seen for about 10 days at Easter time.
But nowadays? It was the first week in January when I spotted the first glazed fruit buns with the white cross motif on them displayed in the supermarket! We’d only just gotten over Christmas and New Year and I know it will be August when the first Yuletide decorations again are laid out in the shops. Oh well. What can I say except “outrageous”.
But let’s get back to the new season’s crop of apples and fennel – I mention them together because that gregarious Italian chef/gourmet Antonio Carluccio told the story of seeing a little boy in a southern Italian market buying a single bulb of fennel, rinsing it in a nearby fountain and sinking his teeth into it just like an apple.
This little boy was simply following an ancient tradition whereby fennel was placed on the dining table at the end of a meal with slices of apple and tiny oranges – a fruit platter to finish the meal.
With its sharp aniseed flavour it’s a shame we have to wait till autumn, as it makes a great addition to salads and would be perfect in summer. For a refreshing salad simply slice the bulb very, very finely, dress with extra virgin olive oil and shaved parmesan.
When cooked, fennel loses some of its anise punch and the texture changes from crunchy to soft and melting.
It is excellent made into a soup, simply chopped and sautéed with a little onion, some potato and vegetable or chicken stock. Cook until the vegetables are tender, puree and finish off with cream, and season to taste, of course!
A favourite soup of mine is to add lemongrass – finely chopped – into the sautéed fennel and continue as described above – a delicate and refreshing starter to a dinner party.
When choosing your bulb – the tighter it is the fresher and sweeter it will be, and of course those cheeky Italians differentiate between male and female bulbs – the more rounded shape are female, (said to be sweeter, not as aromatic).
If taller and thinner it will be male – taste and see if you think there is a difference!
The feathery tops make an excellent garnish and fennel partners well with pork, fish, chicken, parmesan, and flat leaf parsley.
It can be boiled, steamed, char-grilled, roasted, or served freshly sliced at the end of a meal as a disgestif.
I hope you’ll enjoy the mushroom and fennel salad on one of these balmy, early autumn days.
The new season’s fennel is a treat to look forward to – its sharp, clean flavour cuts through those blurry edges.