GRAPEVINE: Aussie Christmas has a red glow

Sparkling red has become synonymous with the Australian Christmas.

Typically made from Shiraz, we are just as likely to see it made from Merlot (particularly in Coonawarra), Cabernet, Durif (common around Rutherglen) or whichever grape is common to the local area. That seems to be how the style was originally conceived.

Originally known as sparkling burgundy, the sparkling reds of Australia began in Victoria when French winemaker Auguste D’argent was charged with producing a sparkling wine based on his expertise in Champagne wines.

In the late 1800s Pinot Noir plantings were few and far between across Australia and thus the wines were made with what was available; Shiraz primarily. D’argents wines didn’t last long, but by the 1890’s there were sparkling reds made from Shiraz being quietly produced in Great Western and Adelaide.

Edward Mazures example from Great western was received well in the agricultural shows and it is reported that this rich, dark wine was thought to be a good example of what sparkling burgundy from its homeland in France should look like.

We are far better educated and informed now, thus it is well-known that the wine is made typically from Shiraz which has no relation to Burgundy where Pinot Noir is the only permitted red grape variety, and in any case Burgundy is a protected name nowadays. There are barely more than 100 sparkling reds produced in Australia today and it remains uniquely Australian, most other wine producing countries haven’t latched on to the style and don’t understand it. It is hard to go past the Seppelt Original Sparkling Shiraz ($24) as a great introduction to the style.

Produced since the 1930s it is now a non-vintage wine which no doubt helps with consistency of style and still regularly appears near the top of sparkling critics lists each year.

In many instances it is better suited to Christmas lunch or dinner pairing than some other traditional styles.

Champagne is an excellent way to start the day but can struggle up against the richer meat dishes on offer such as the classic pairing of Turkey and Sparkling Shiraz. You could go to a still red at this point of the meal, but our hot summers often call for something that can be chilled.

Staying in Great Western where some of the earliest examples of the style were produced it is hard to go past a winery with an equally long and storied history in the region. Best’s ($34) began producing Sparkling Shiraz in the 1950s and could be one of the longest running producers of the style if it weren’t for a near 20-year hiatus in production that ended in 2006. Since then they have continued to refine the wine, pinpointing the best blocks across their vineyard that are well suited the sparkling style and not compromising at any stage of production such that the dosage before bottling is drawn from a small batch of aged liqueur Muscat.

A rich and full rendition of this wine, dominated by dark berries, plums, doughy notes, and subtle dried herb.

The palate carries this on with a silky mouthfeel, chocolate, raisin and subtle nutty notes likely coming through from the muscat.

A worthy, and uniquely Australian, match for Christmas lunch that is featuring red meat.