Great Ocean Food: Gnocchi all over the world

Making gnocchi has never been my strong suit. Eating it has.

I consider myself somewhat of an expert gnocchi judge. For me, the appreciation of this iconic Italian “primo piatto” started in Lygon Street in the early Eighties.
Like most of the students attending Melbourne University at the time, Saturday night was spent eating out at one of the numerous pasta restaurants on the famous Italian strip. We could not afford the more expensive establishments, but there were dozens of places where a mountain of pasta could be had for under 10 dollars. At the time, almost all these eateries were BYO.
So, after playing football or rugby, we would head to Lygon Street with plenty of beer, less than 10 dollars each and with high expectations of a good night out. Rarely were we disappointed. The restaurateurs were often disappointed, having to put up with raucous student behavior; but that is another story for another day.
Needless to say, my favourite dish was gnocchi. It always came “al pomodoro” in a rich tomato-based sauce, with a basket of bread and butter. Since then I have had countless variations of gnocchi dishes in many different cities, including Rome, New York and, of course, Melbourne. Until last week, my favourite was Donnini’s in Melbourne, with Cotenna in Greenwich Village and Settimio in Rome second and third.
But for me the virus lockdown has had an unexpectedly delicious side effect. Our two daughters are staying with us (having been living in New York and Sydney) and are doing much of the cooking at home. It might be I have gone crazy in isolation or my judgment is clouded by sentiment, but I am pleased to announce my new all time favourite gnocchi was made right here at home by our youngest daughter. It was the classic sage and butter recipe using fresh sage from our garden. This is her method.

 

Gnocchi

 

INGREDIENTS

4 medium russet (or other starchy) potatoes

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for the water

1 teaspoon pepper

1 egg

1 and a half cups plain flour, extra to roll

2 tablespoons butter, for pan frying

Sage leaves

 

METHOD

Add whole and skin on potatoes to large saucepan of cool salted water.  Bring to boil and cook twenty minutes or until fork easily pierces the potato. Drain, allow to cool slightly then remove skin with potato peeler or hands. In a medium mixing bowl, mash potato until smooth.  Add salt and pepper and mix swell.  Make a well in centre of potato and crack egg into the well.  Whisk egg briefly.  Using your hands gently combine egg into potato until evenly distributed. Place one cup of flour onto clean surface.  Turn out the potato dough onto it, keeping the remaining half cup spare for rolling.  Working quickly and carefully, knead the dough, only incorporating as much flour as you need along the way until the dough loses stickiness and becomes more solid. Slice the dough into four parts. Roll out one part into a long rope, about two centimeters wide and slice at one centimetre intervals. Repeat with the remaining dough and keep on floured board.  If desired, place a fork on your work surface and slide each gnocchi square from the base of the fork prongs to the top so they make a decorative shape. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the gnocchi in batches, stirring gently once or twice to ensure they are not sticking. Boil until they float to the surface; after another 15-30 seconds in the water, remove.  In a pan over medium heat, melt butter and add the sage. Add the gnocchi and toss until lightly golden (I prefer it slightly burnt).