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Grapevine: Modesty is a virtue

August 13, 2020 BY

Luccarelli have been producing wine in Puglia since the 19th century. Both their Primitivo and Negroamaro are knockouts for under $20.

Some grape varieties just aren’t meant to be grand, noble wines capable of aging for decades in the cellar.

Early in our development as a still wine producing country, we may have suffered from a bit of an inferiority complex.
Shiraz and Cabernet were the mainstay for reds. Always built with plenty of extraction and oak ready to stand the test of time. Yet most wine is purchased and consumed within 24 hours.
It has been a slow process to introduce more varieties that are well suited to our climate and that can be produced at a cost that makes them a viable option for wine drinkers to enjoy without breaking the bank. Of course, we’re only a few hundred years behind the old world on that front. Countries such as Italy and Spain literally have thousands of different grape varieties. Most are grown in small regions, and most of the production is consumed locally too. There are no grand ambitions to make the next Grange or to charge hundreds of dollars per bottle.
They often have simple lifestyles working their land, producing enough wine to make a living and enjoy for themselves over the next year until they do it all again. The grapes they grow are not always noble, the wines they produce are not always “great”. But they are accurate examples of the varieties, modestly priced and ready to drink early on with good, simple dishes.
You may have seen and bought Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Montepulciano, but they barely scratch the surface. I can’t delve into every variety, but I can suggest two which are able to produce delicious medium to full-bodied styles, that provide a novel change to the same old Shiraz or Cabernet, match well with hearty winter dishes and can be found at very reasonable prices.

Primitivo
Primitivo is also known as Zinfandel in the USA. Primitivo is slowly getting a foot hold in Australia, plantings in Mclaren Vale are performing particularly well as it suits the Mediterranean climate perfectly. While Aussie options are not quite at the ‘everyday drinker’ price yet. Many Italian options are. In Puglia where Primitivo is native, the warm climate and moderately fertile soils make for wines that are generally full-bodied, with plenty of rich dark fruits, luscious mouthfeel and subtle leathery/liquorice notes to bring some balance.

Negroamaro
Wines with substantial tannins often require the most aging to soften and become readily drinkable. Negroamaro has no such problem. Generally low in both tannin and acid, it is still a full-bodied red with plenty of ripe red fruits, along with plenty of spice and a subtle earthy/rustic feel.

Luccarelli have been producing wine in Puglia since the 19th century. Both their Primitivo and Negroamaro are knockouts for under $20. Typical of their varieties, they are perfect options for no frills drinking. Mid-week pasta, pizza, stews, casseroles would all be elevated with a glass of these wines to pair.

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