Shiraz vs Syrah – What’s the difference?

At the physiological level, Shiraz and Syrah are no different.

They are the exact same grape, simply given a different name. Think of Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris, both are the same grape but they represent different styles born out of the regions that made them famous.

The perception of Australian wine is key to the identity of Shiraz; it is synonymous with it. As a “New World” wine country you have to be doing something very different, very well to capture the attention of the international wine drinker.

The rise of the most famous wine critic in the world – Robert Parker – coincided with Aussie Shiraz. Favouring full-bodied, robust, hedonistic styles of red wine he found Penfolds Grange in the mid-1990s proclaiming it “the leading candidate for the richest, most concentrated dry red table wine on planet earth”. All of a sudden, Aussie winemakers had a road map to fame and fortune; dial up the oak, pick your grapes very ripe.

As this style trickled down to the everyday wines it came to be representative of Australian wine, and more specifically Shiraz.

High alcohol, big bold ripe fruit flavours, pepper and more than a few lashings of glossy new oak. Fashions change though, and the turn was particularly vicious for the perception of Australian wine, something we are only just recovering from on the international stage. This is in part because the rest of the world is learning about our cooler climate regions. Which is where Syrah comes in to the picture.

Syrah/Shiraz finds its home in the Northern Rhone Valley of France just south of Lyon, where of course it is known as Syrah. It is the sole grape in wines labelled Cornas, Saint Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and is sometimes blended with Viognier on Cote Rotie. This is a world away from the oak and fruit bombs of 1990s Australian Shiraz. Here you see the cool climate expression at its pinnacle. Savoury, peppery, meaty, spicy are far more common descriptions.

Saint Joseph is producing some of the most exciting Syrah at the moment, the variety has a special affinity with the granite soils of the best sites here.

Why then are you seeing Victorian, Western Australian and even some South Australian wines labelled as Syrah? In a bid to signal to wine drinkers, some Australian producers are now labelling their wines as either Shiraz or Syrah depending on the style they are making. Particularly in the case of Syrah to differentiate themselves from the stereotype of Australian Shiraz. So if you see an Australian Syrah then you can expect it be more medium-bodied, savoury, show more spice and pepper dominance and it likely won’t see much new oak.

Hochkirch Syrah 2014 – $35
Hochkirch are a certified biodynamic producer based in Henty, Victoria. This is genuine cool-climate territory where Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay tend to thrive. Their Syrah is a great example of the ‘Syrah’ style of Shiraz, it is only medium-bodied with fine silky tannins. Full of pepper, dried herbs, subtle florals and meaty notes along with ripe red and black berry/ briar fruits. An effortless, elegant Syrah that is full of life.